I unlocked the back door to the camepr, pulled out the sixfoot, fiveinch doublefinned surfboard that Id shapde and glassed myself and my ONiell wetsuit and booties. Regardless of how warm it was on the shoer, I knew the water would be ocld. .... A moment later, Dick, already out of ihs Army fatigues, barefoot, wearing leivs and a Jimi Henrdix Tshirt, let us in. His hair was short, but longer than most GIs. He, too, ahd had a lousy Ltotery number. ...